All the jeans in my wardrobe are low-rise, skinny jeans circa 2010 (i.e. pre-children) and are just not the right shape for me any more. Making my own jeans seemed a daunting prospect… until lockdown happen and anything that I could do at home that was a bit of a challenge seemed like a bloody good distraction technique. This is one of the many reasons I love sewing – it is my escape.
The Morgan Jeans from Closet Core Patterns (formally Closet Case Patterns) had been on my wish-list for a while from a design point of view. They are mid-rise boyfriend fit jeans with a button-fly. I decided to make a wearable toile first so I found the largest men’s jeans available in charity shop. The men’s jeans available were larger and made of thick, non-stretch denim (most of the women’s jeans there were stretch denim).
I didn’t take into account how much extra fabric I would need due to the curve required on the waistband pieces for my female shape so I had to raid the fabric stash for some extra denim! They cost me the grand sum of £1 to make.
I unpicked all the belt loops, pockets, top stitching and seams to salvage as much as possible out of the original jeans as possible. I love how you can see discolouration of the original pocket placement on the back. For the top-stitching thread, I just used some I had left over from a previous project.
It does say to size up in the pattern if you don’t want them slim fit. I cut a straight size 10 based on my hip measurements and made some dart adjustments of around 3cm in the yoke fit at the waist. Stupidly, I didn’t interface the waistband, which probably wouldn’t have been a problem but for the substitute denim here being much thinner.
The instructions were clear to sew and I was glad I could just use my standard sewing machine with denim needles.
I am definitely planning to make another, smarter, pair with some dark organic denim perhaps a size smaller for a slimmer fit.
These jeans are a more causal fit than I am used to but I really like them and I’m pleased with the 90’s feel of them. Rolled up with winter boots and my vintage Jaeger coat and lots of layers is my plan for this season :).